Change is in the air. Not only did I become somewhat of a breakfast person in the last month, I also started baking quite a bit. I read at least four iterations of the simple gâteau au yaourt — including the Orangette, Smitten Kitchen, and Chocolate & Zucchini versions — before I settled on the Kitchn’s recipe, which uses olive oil as the primary fat. I also added the zest of one lemon and used Lebanese yogurt.
We served the cake with a quick rhubarb sauce, made by simmering four diced rhubarb stalks in the juice of 1/2 an orange and 2 tbsps of maple syrup until it reduced into a thick, silky sauce, tart and velvety and perfect with a slice of cake. The Kitchn’s recipe is really sized up — we had leftovers for 4 days afterward — and because it’s not that sweet, it’s great for breakfast and as an afternoon snack with tea. I loved the texture, which had a slightly spongey and crumby mouthfeel, a little like cornbread. The most surprising thing about this cake was the complete lack of pronouncement of any individual flavor: the sourness of the yogurt, tartness of the zest, and nuttiness of the olive oil somehow all cancel each other out, resulting in an ambiguously defined, utterly humble and lovely little dessert.