I couldn’t stop thinking about the osso buco I made in San Diego. I had to have it again.
Why did I want it so badly? I had to make the other version — made with white wine (I found the notes of red wine and tomatoes to be somewhat assertive and dominating) and anchovies — which I was convinced would be superior. And instead of mashed potatoes, I needed to eat a classic risotto Milanese — with a fat pinch of saffron, and very little else.
Although the gremolata didn’t change an inch. I was very happy with it. Gremolata, you get to stay the same!
A classic Milanese risotto is extremely streamlined, with only a handful of ingredients that congeal into something extraordinary. It took all of my restraint to not add wine, cream or grated cheese. It’s just good (homemade) stock, fresh butter, saffron, and Arborio rice. This is a deceptively simple dinner, easy to assemble if you have another helping hand in the kitchen. And on a cold winter night, I’m not sure I’d like to eat anything else.