A MORNING WITH AU KOUIGN-AMANN

There are so many wonderful things I could say about the friendly and sweet patisserie, Au Kouign-Amann, but let me start with this: their croissant is the best I’ve ever had. We made a visit very early one morning, and the crossiants were fresh, warm and pliable, with the most delicate, buttery and tender crumb. I could have easily eaten more, but I was really there for their namesake pastry (I’ve mentioned its wonders before), which is reliably delicious (thank its two main ingredients: butter and sugar). I enjoyed the tarte tatin, too, but it lacked the necessary undercarriage crunch of caramelized puff pastry that I love so much.

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