TRYING OUT GAME HENS

I realize that I’ve gone on and on about the my ongoing love affair with roast chicken, which makes it doubly hard to admit that I am newly obsessed with roasting Cornish game hens instead. Their tiny frame makes them the perfect size for two people, and you can buy Cornish game hens in bulk at the Jean Talon market (about $22 for four).

Cornish game hens roast much faster — by my count, about 40 minutes in a 425 degree oven — and render rich puddles of fat (perfectly utilized when sliced purple potatoes are strategically placed underneath). Plus, there was less surface area, so I felt totally justified in slipping truffles under the skin, just like this. To counteract the richness, a simple salad of steamed haricot verts and torn Boston lettuce, dressed in a supple lemon vinaigrette. My favorite new roast fowl dinner, its humble beginnings transformed into something decadent and totally classic.

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